Lt. Gen. Chesty Puller, USMCAfter awaking the next morning I left the motel and drove to the nearby Shoney’s (Yes, Shoney’s is still in business, just not in the Greenville area.) where I enjoyed the breakfast bar.

After breakfast I headed east along Virginia 10, crossed the James River on I-295 (a magnificent view of the James and surrounding environs) and then hit I-64. When I drove on to the entrance ramp I noticed a curious sight for an Interstate – a closure arm. Yes, it was in the open position, but, if for some reason the authorities wished to close the Interstate to traffic, they could do so. Perhaps its purpose is to close I-64 to eastbound traffic in case a hurricane were to necessitate the use of all four lanes for westbound traffic.

After several miles I connected with Virginia 33. I was heading to a peninsula of land known as the Northern Neck, which was the birthplace of two giants of American history – George Washington and Robert E. Lee.

Before I reached the Neck, however, I was to be unexpectedly yet pleasantly delayed for a couple of hours, visiting a couple of sites I had no idea existed. No matter how much planning I put into a trip beforehand, on many occasions over the years I have run into interesting places that I had not anticipated.

I was driving through the town of West Point when I saw a historical marker on the side of the road that caught my attention. I could not make out all of the wording but I caught the words, “Chesty Puller buried at Christ Church in the nearby town of Saluda,” or something to that effect. I had heard that name before and I knew that he had been a famous general during the Korean War.

As I neared Saluda I began looking for Christ Church. Driving through town I saw no sign of that particular edifice. As I passed through town and began to pick up speed I thought that I had missed it somehow and did not want to turn around and look all over the countryside for it.

A mile or two outside of town, however, I saw another historical marker in the distance. As I got close enough to read it I saw Puller’s name on it. I also saw to the left an old brick church with a graveyard. I hadn’t missed it after all.

It turns out that Christ Church in Saluda is not merely an old building. It is one of the oldest structures in America. The foundation and first couple of feet of the structure date back to 1666. The church has been in continuous use since then.

Although the graveyard is not large by today’s standards, it is still big enough that it would have taken me several minutes of constant scanning to locate Puller’s grave. I parked in front of a modern building, the parish hall, and walked inside, hoping to find someone who could point me in the right direction.

After walking down the hallway I found an open door. A man who was in the office got up from his desk and greeted me. He identified himself as the rector of the parish. I asked him if he could tell me where I could find the grave. Instead of merely giving me directions, he put on his coat and walked with me out to the graveyard in order to personally show me the spot.

As we stepped out of the church hall, an elderly woman was getting out of her car. The rector introduced me to the woman, who worked in the office and who just happened to be Puller’s sister-in-law. The three of us talked for a moment or two. It was explained to me that her husband had been the younger brother of Puller’s wife, who herself was much younger than the general. That explained why a sister-in-law of the long-gone Puller could still be alive.

The rector and I then continued on our way to the graveyard, where he led me to the graves of Puller and his wife, Virginia McCandlish Puller. The graves are situated at the corner of the cemetery nearest the church hall. He spent a few minutes telling me about Puller’s life.

Puller was born Lewis Burwell Puller on June 26, 1898, in West Point, Virginia. His grandfather, Major John Puller, was a Confederate officer who was killed in battle in 1863.

After attending the Virginia Military Institute for a year, Puller then enlisted in the Marine Corps in 1918. Until his forced retirement in 1955 he served his country as a Marine, rising in rank until he finally reached the rank of Lieutenant General. During his illustrious career he was awarded several decorations, including several Navy Crosses, the Legion of Merit, the Bronze Star, the Silver Star, the Distinguished Service Cross and the Purple Heart, among others.

Puller was known as a tough soldier but at the same time was loved and respected by his men. After he retired in 1955 to his home in Saluda, countless Marines who made the “pilgrimage” to his house were always welcomed by him.

One quotation attributed to Puller is, “All right, they’re on our left, they’re on our right, they’re in front of us, they’re behind us . . . they can’t get away this time.” On another occasion he is reported to have said, “Take me to the Brig. I want to see the real Marines.”

On another occasion, he came upon a Marine Lieutenant. He was disciplining a Marine who had failed to salute him. The lieutenant insisted that the Marine salute him 100 times. Puller told the Lieutenant that he was absolutely right for making the Marine salute him 100 times. He then reminded the lieutenant that every salute an officer receives he is required to return and promptly ordered the lieutenant to return all 100 of the salutes.

Puller died on October 11, 1971. His wife lived until just a couple of years ago, passing away at the age of 97.

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